The small German city of Cologne has been made world-famous by the phrase Eau de Cologne or Kölnisch Wasser, which literally means water from Cologne. Sadly the tap water in the city isn’t fragrant but the city sits on the banks of the River Rhine and has a rich history as a centre of arts, culture and business. Modern Cologne is home to Microsoft, EA Sports and is Germany’s insurance hub. At the same time, the towering Gothic cathedral which took more than 600 years to construct and the centuries-old charming Christmas markets ground the city in a mature atmosphere. The other liquid that Cologne is famous for is its beer, known as Kölsch which literally means ‘from Cologne’ and is another reason tourists visit.
Around 95 per cent of the city centre was destroyed during World War Two but plenty remains to do, making the city ideal for a two-day trip or weekend break. We recommend staying inside the city centre which can be fairly inexpensive and allows you to explore the bulk of the town on foot.
We’ll run through our itinerary for two days in the city but there is the option to add in a day at nearby Bruhl which is well-connected to Cologne by rail. Bruhl is a regal town nearby and home to the resplendent Augustusburg and Falkenlust Palaces which were used to host guests of the West German state until 1994. Bruhl is also home to Phantasialand, one of Europe’s top theme parks.
If you want to swap things in this itinerary out for some more fun activities, wait til the end for Chalofy’s fun options.
Day 1
Cologne Cathedral
The biggest attraction in Cologne (literally) is its magnificent Gothic cathedral. It has been under construction for most of its life, with the foundation stone being laid in 1248 and construction continuing for more than 300 years before being halted in 1560 and then resuming in 1840 for another 40 years before completion in 1880. All that hard work didn’t go to waste though as the cathedral holds the honour of being Germany’s most visited attraction, drawing in an estimated 20,000 visitors a day. We found we frequently ended up by the Cathedral when we went exploring, meaning it is the true heart of the city.
When inside pay particular attention to the vast stained-glass windows which vary in age and even include a captivating modern design. There are also shrines and relics located in the vestibules around the church and a museum highlighting the history of Kölner Dom.
The building is the largest Gothic cathedral in Northern Europe and its 158-metre spire briefly made it the tallest man-made structure in the world from 1880 to 1884 before being overtaken by the Washington Monument, which is around 10 metres taller. You can climb one of those spires for an unparalleled view across the city and a better understanding of how tough it would have been to be the bell-ringers at Cologne Cathedral. The narrow staircase spirals all the way to top and is not for the faint-hearted. Jovial signs at base camp warn you about this but we think they may have underplayed it. It was probably made worse by the 34 degree celsius temperature we experienced in August and the two-way traffic as people made their way down on stairs that are not wide enough for two people to stand said-by side. At some point you enter a stair-climbing trance before opening on to the bell level. Here you can catch your breath before continuing the climb. The final platform is worth it and the way down thankfully seems to pass quicker.
4711 Cologne
After that climb, you might need to freshen up. Luckily right at the base of the cathedral is the 4711 shop. The brand 4711 is the most popular authentic eau de cologne and has been producing perfumed water in the city since 1799. The brand was favoured by the royal houses of Europe and allegedly even used by John F Kennedy. The company now produces many different scents using the traditional techniques and ratios but the original 4711 can make for a great souvenir, especially in the heritage bottles.
You can visit their website: www.4711.com
Rathaus
Just a few minutes walk away is Cologne’s City Hall, the oldest of its kind in all of Germany. The impressive gothic and renaissance architecture of the buildings deserves time to absorb. The oldest of these buildings, still in operation, dates back to the 1300s while the newest was rebuilt soon after World War Two.
Old Market
Next, walk over the grand square which hosts Cologne’s world-famous Christmas market every year. Even if you don’t visit during the winter months, the square is a great place to soak in the few remaining traditional Rhineland buildings. Enjoy a meal, a drink or one of their delectable ice creams available in parlours or “Eiscafes” around the square and in its side-streets.
Fish Market
Just a short walk away is the fish market but don’t worry, the raw fish stench is long gone and it is now probably the most Instagrammable spot in Cologne. Sitting back from the banks of the Rhein, the rows of colourful houses contain traditional German restaurants, taverns and even some hotels. The bright pastel shades and traditional features of the buildings are juxtaposed with the towering Romanesque church of Groß St. Martin. This is a great spot to chill out and enjoy the city’s vibe. The streets around here also contain some brilliant independent shops so be sure to check those out if you’re looking for a unique souvenir.
Museums
Given the fact that Cologne has a history dating back 2,000 years, including a time when it was one of the centres of European culture, there is plenty of history and art around. There is the archaeological Roman-Germanic Museum, and the Duftmuseum im Farina-Haus, the museum where you can literally see where modern perfume was invented. If you’re looking for modern and pop, abstract and surreal art then visit Museum Ludwig or if your tastes are more towards fine art you can also visit Wallraf-Richartz Museum. Cologne was the headquarters of Gestapo - Hitler’s official secret police and their dark history is charted in their former building, at El-DE Haus.
There is one more highly-recommended museum but we’ll talk about that a little later.
Hohenzollern Bridge and View from the Triangle
If you’re anywhere near the river in Cologne you will notice the impressive Hohenzollern Bridge. Not only is it a nice sight though - the bridge was crucial to Germany’s defence in World War Two and despite facing aerial bombardment for years it somehow survived. When the Allied Forces decided to use it to cross into Cologne, the Nazis ended up blowing up a part of it themselves. Now it is covered in “love locks” and you can walk, bus or take a train across it to Deutz, where you will find the KölnTriangle, Cologne’s second-tallest building after the cathedra, at just over 100 metres. For just €3 you can catch a lift up and get a stunning sunset view of the cathedral and old city of Cologne.
Day 2
Make this your good weather day as much of it will be spent in gardens and outdoors.
Rheinauhafen
Mauel 1883 is one of Cologne’s culinary icons and is a small chain of traditional German bakeries that offer the best breakfast in town. You can get your fill of either sweet or savoury items, with the most convenient Mauel for tourists at the eastern end of Rheinauhafen.
This ultra-modern district looks like something out of a sci-fi movie with iconic gravity-defying buildings inspired by the cranes that once worked this historic dock. This award-winning development houses many of Cologne’s most trendy offices including EA games and Microsoft. After breakfast, walk along the dock and soak in the vibe before reaching our next stop.
Schokoladenmuseum
We told you there was one more museum coming your way and this is it - the Chocolate Museum. This is one of Germany’s top ten most visited attractions and it’s not hard to imagine why. You can explore 5,000 years of chocolate history, visit a special greenhouse where they grow cacao trees and marvel at a 3-metre tall chocolate fountain. You won’t get many tasters before you get your hopes too high but there is a shop at the end loaded with treats that would satisfy any chocoholic.
Skulpturenpark
Walk back to the centre at Heumarkt or the cathedral and catch a train to the Zoo station but first visit Skulpturenpark. Contemporary sculpture is just plain fun and often interactive and this is a park dedicated to it. We didn’t get to explore it all as it shut unreasonably early but what we saw was cool, through-provoking and well worth the short detour.
Botanical Garden
The Cologne Botanical garden is an utter delight, especially if you’re visiting in Summer. Set around the palatial Flora, a purpose-built events venue, this stunning garden is the oldest public parks in Cologne. It has been around since the 1800s and has beautifully landscaped gardens with fountains, arches and waterfalls. Best of all, it is free to enter.
While you are there enjoy a snack, meal or some drinks at their restaurant Dank Augusta on the terrace of Flora.
You can also visit the zoo if you have time but we had only recently visited one and didn’t feel like stumping up €20 each. When we visited Cologne, the Zoo was running special events that let you have a meal at their restaurant up close to their open animal exhibits. Our timings didn’t work out but this could be your way of seeing both.
Cable Car
Head back to the tram station but cross so you are at the Rheinseilbahn station. This cute, small cable car crosses the Rhein and connects the Zoo and Botanical Garden area with Rheinpark. It was built for the 1957 Bundesgartenschau - a public landscaping and gardening show held every two years in Germany. It’s a bit of fun and helps connect you to otherwise far-out sights.
Rehinpark and Kleinbahn
The station you get off at is in Rheinpark and has two interesting things close by. One is Claudius Therme, a rather fancy thermal spa on the banks of the river. The other is the Kleinbahn, a cute and inexpensive tiny train which whisks you around the park, taking in the river view and its main sites including the large open-air theatre.
Once you’re done, walk along the Rhein and enjoy the Rheinboulevard with great views across the city’s iconic waterfront.
Alternative fun
Aqualand
We gave Claudius Therme in Rheinpark a miss as we’d only recently been to Budapest’s incredible Széchenyi Thermal Baths. But we did see Aqualand Freizeitbad, a waterpark on the northern outskirts of the town. There is a cheap ticket after 7.30pm so we were able to go soak up after a long day out and enjoy some exhilarating water slides. There are seven high-thrill rides here but also a Himalayan Sea Salt grotto and an outdoor grotto as well as indoor whirlpools. Then there’s also an entirely separate sauna section and places to eat. If you’re travelling with kids then this would be ideal.
Phantasialand
Around an hour on public transport is one of Europe’s top theme parks. We didn’t visit but after we found out about it we wished we did. There are 36 rides and plenty of other things to do in Bruhl to make it worth the trip.
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