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Rabat is Morocco's capital city and a great place for a day trip from Casablanca or, as we did it, a stop on a longer exploration Morocco. Despite its status and history, the city isn’t that large and the people are very laid back. Rabat was an unexpected gem on our trip thanks to its sea-breeze, great food and unique but low-key medina.
Rabat is both hilly and on the sea, which makes its climate is refreshing. If you're driving, the main way into the city is along a vast coastal boulevard with a big beach and walking paths as you head in.
Chellah
The first place to head to is, rather fittingly, the origins of the city of Rabat. Although the city is small, it dates back to the Phoenecian Empire which stretched to this Atlantic outpost more than 3,000 years ago. Romans came later and built this town up, with roads, walls and a triumphal arch, much of which is still standing today despite its age. Later Muslim rule over the city turned what was originally known as “Sala” into “Chellah”, a necropolis with royal tombs and a grand mosque, although only its shell and a minaret remain today.
Mausoleum of Mohammed V and Hassan Tower
Moroccans venerate Mohammed V as their liberator from French colonialism in the 1950s. He's also recognised by Moroccan Jews for his efforts to shield them from the horrors of the holocaust, even after colonial overlords France lost significant ground to the Nazis. He is the grandfather of the current king.
His mausoleum would eventually be built near a pre-existing Rabat landmark, Hassan Tower. This square, red sandstone minaret was intended to be the tallest in the world when construction started on a hilltop in 12th century Rabat however, the Caliph who ordered its construction died before the accompanying mosque could be completed. The tower is around 40 metres shorter than originally intended but is still visible from many points around the city.
A few walls and hundreds of columns remain in the square despite the earthquake of 1755 which destroyed many buildings and killed thousands in Morocco. That same earthquake also ruined the Portuguese capital Lisbon which is 350 miles north of Rabat. The columns are arranged in a neat pattern at various different heights, with Mohammed V’s mausoleum standing at the other end.
This white, green-roofed building is given a royal guard and attracts Moroccans from across the country wanting to pay their respects. The gilded ceiling is spectacular, while the public area is limited to a raised gallery you can walk around. Below are the bodies of the liberator king, alongside his successor Hassan II and his other son Prince Abdallah. You will probably hear the Quran being read here aloud when you visit.
Make sure you walk around as much of this building and park as possible. Moroccans have a knack for disguising intricate beauty and minimalist, sophisticated design, in plain sight. The mausoleum is one of the best modern examples of this.
Mohammed VI Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art
Head to this modern art gallery, built just a few years ago by and named after the current king, which houses the work of more than 200 Moroccan artists as well as installations showcasing the work of up and coming African artists. The building itself is another great example of modern Moroccan architecture, while the surrounding neighbourhood affects a grown-up yet bohemian atmosphere.
Kasbah of the Udayas
A hilly outcrop on the interface of the city with the Atlantic ocean was determined to be the perfect spot to build a fortress to deter oncoming invaders in the 10th century. Despite its military past, the Kasbah of the Udayas was one of the most peaceful places we visited, with views across both the ocean and the city.
Soak in the impressive scale of the fortress and its main gate, Bab Oudaia, and wander its ramparts, old mosque and streets before sauntering into the small but brilliant Old Medina. A lot of the houses here were built by the Moors: Muslims and Jews who left Spain to avoid the forced conversions of the Reconquista at the end of the 15th century.
The lower half of all walls here are painted blue, while the upper half is whitewashed, bringing welcome shade and a cool feeling across the typically narrow streets. It is also thought to repel mosquitoes.
We found tiny artisan workshops here producing intricate wooden handicrafts you can buy there and then from the source. The prices are so cheap we ended up giving more to the craftsman than he asked for, a huge difference from shopping in the Marrakech medina for example, where it's easy to suspect you have been ripped off.
Andalusian Gardens
Within the Kasbah, you must visit the small but serene Andalusian Gardens. After the Moors were expelled from Spain, many came to Rabat and the Kasbah, bringing the same style and influences which are visible in the Alhambra Palace in Grenada.
Although this garden’s origins are French, it was designed to highlight that flavour in its mosaic paths and citrus-tree shade.
Where to Eat:
Dar Naji
Ask for a seafront table in this highly traditional Moroccan restaurant to complete your history-packed day. Our glamorous waitress Haleema recommended we try the Rfissa, a traditional dish for celebrations, someone similar to a haleem (ironically), but with chicken and crepes.
Be sure to order the tea afterwards. Everywhere in Morocco, tea is poured from a height to help cool it down and improves the taste with oxidation. At Dar Naji, tea is poured at height, behind the waitress’ back while she twirls.
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